Professional Amatuer Shots

Think you're the next George Schaub or Annie Leibovitz? Show us what you've got in here, along with other tech advice or news

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cGr
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by cGr » Fri 10 Aug, 2012 10:19 pm

Photos look good ash. I like the photos of the cars (particularly the ones with 1 car filling in the background of a shot of the near car) better than the wider shots of the cars in front of the building.

There's a saying 'If your photos arent good enough, you're not close enough'. The shots I like are the ones that are up close and personal.

0166 - I love the front of the new CLS Mercs
0167 - Great reflection in the badge of you taking a squat in front of the car
0172 - I like. Nice clean lines, but the main focus on the badge
0176 - I really really really like this photo. Would have been good to see a bit more of the car behind, as well as the rest of the tail light of the near car
0182/0186/0189 - Struggling to find an interesting subject. 0182 is of a tail light (wow), 0186 is a blurry wheel (no, hang on a sec, there's a badge there), 0189 is a wheel, or a headlight, or a fog light, i'm not sure
0191 - Looks tough
201/203/204 - 201 doesnt do much for me (dont really know what it is), 203 is mostly taken up by the ground (why not pan up and get the top of the car in?), but 204 nails it. Love the crop, love the badge/light/pipes on the near car, just the right amount of blur on the back car, AND the whole car is in frame :P

Hard to choose a favourite out of 176 or 204. 166 is not bad either (but looks like tough light to shoot with).

Enough about the photos though, how were they to drive?

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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by iano » Fri 10 Aug, 2012 10:42 pm

Is that dude one of Robert Mugabi's henchmen? (Zambezi plate...)
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by dorift » Fri 10 Aug, 2012 11:46 pm

I like a couple of those photos Ash, but I dislike the subjects.

Those mercs are such a horrible shape imo. They don't look styled "right". It's like 3 different designers all had a crack and they morphed it into one shape.
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Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by SecaBoy » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 7:07 am

Thanks cam, didn't expect a detailed response like that but it was definitely appreciated. :)
I agree. 176 and 204 are my favourites.

Ian. Not sure mate. He's built like a brick shithouse and is South African. He is the owner of trident security.
Very very very nice guy. Really anal about his cars, so we were very lucky to be lent that one.
Getting to take shots of his other cars soon. THAT will be interesting. Lol

Graham. Each to their own. The new CLS "Zambezi" gave me permanent wood. By far my favourite merc available on the new market.


How was it to drive? Well. EVERYTHING was an absolute pleasure. I could not fault the cars at all. If I really had to be picky I'd say that the v8 rumble wasn't loud enough. But that in itself would defeat the whole purpose behind the car.
It's by no means stupidly fast, but getting from 0-100kmh is so effortless and rather quick for a luxo barge.
Such a comfortable ride too. But press the buttons to make it firmer and holy crap this thing car handle!!!
Dynamic side bolsters are pretty sweet too. Haha.
Oh and let's not forget the massage chairs. Hahaha
We got stuck in peak hour traffic on the way back and it just putted along like it was nothing whilst giving me a great massage. (Almost gave myself a happy ending because of this car :lol:)
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by Jonesy » Sat 25 Aug, 2012 2:01 pm

Great photos Ash,

From the short trip i had in the back it was a nice place to be in, though any taller then me and you'll be hitting your head on the roof alot

We will be getting the photographers photos today so any of the cars i'll foward on.

And thanks again for your help

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Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by SecaBoy » Sat 25 Aug, 2012 7:04 pm

No worries man. Glad I could help out.
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by iano » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 10:18 am

I've taken many crappy snaps of my morning coffees, but this one I quite like:

Image
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by cGr » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 3:50 pm

Two words: White balance.

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Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by iano » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 4:50 pm

too hot or too cold?
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by daBOODA » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 4:52 pm

It's pretty warm.
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by daBOODA » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 5:05 pm

Left is original and right is a quick colour balance adjustment in PS
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by iano » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 7:53 pm

Note to self: Work on PS / LR processing after caffeine slam, not before :oops:

Good spot cGr , colour temp was roasted.

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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by cGr » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 8:40 pm

Hrm, bit too far perhaps on that one, looks washed out and generally unappetising.

My crack at it. Bump on brightness/contrast too.
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by cGr » Mon 03 Sep, 2012 1:41 pm

Bit of a rehash on an old shot, but was good to shoot it on raw and see the differences.

ISO-200, 10mm, f/11, 15sec, +2/3rd EV

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edit (Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:34 am): still we have these issues....?

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Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by iano » Mon 03 Sep, 2012 2:12 pm

Raw seems to give a much more natural (restrained?) look. JPEG you're at the mercy of whatever in camera processing the DSLR body applies. I usually find JPEGs to contain too much saturation as a general rule
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by daBOODA » Mon 03 Sep, 2012 2:51 pm

iano wrote:Raw seems to give a much more natural (restrained?) look. JPEG you're at the mercy of whatever in camera processing the DSLR body applies. I usually find JPEGs to contain too much saturation as a general rule

Swot I've been tryin to tell everyone!
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by cGr » Mon 03 Sep, 2012 3:38 pm

iano wrote:Raw seems to give a much more natural (restrained?) look. JPEG you're at the mercy of whatever in camera processing the DSLR body applies. I usually find JPEGs to contain too much saturation as a general rule
It depends on how your process the raw file image - you could just as easily go over the top with post processing, as opposed to in camera processing. The big advantage with raw is that you can change your mind later as to how you want the image to look without compromising image quality.

It is easy possible (with a bit of time) to set your in-camera settings (sharpness/contrast/saturation) to a point where the saved image is similar to how you would (in general) get that image in PP most of the time. The thing which really nicks me is that apart from brightness, there are zero other settings in the camera to control how the image looks on the LCD. This is where I have the most issues as sometimes its hard to see the detail on the LCD, so I have to rely on the knowledge of my camera to determine how its going to look (over/under exposed, brightness, contrast, etc) when I get it home on the big screen.

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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by daBOODA » Mon 03 Sep, 2012 4:03 pm

Cameron do you look at the histogram after taking a shot? These days I look at that more than the image preview.
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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by cGr » Mon 03 Sep, 2012 4:17 pm

No, I dont - maybe I should...?

Maybe I've always used it wrong?

The thing I didnt/dont like about the histogram is that it still requires analysis, which doesnt make it unlike the rear LCD on my camera (in that its not a definitive tool, and its something you need to learn to interpret). The benefit of the LCD is that it will be consistent in its display (however right or wrong), whilst a histogram will vary based on the subject. A night shot like that above is going to produce a completely different histogram compared to that same shot taken in the sunshine - but both shots could be perfectly acceptable when viewed.

I think the other thing that has scared me away from histogram's (and got me into the habit of not liking them) is that historically my dslr's have only had brightness histograms and/or highlight alerts. There are times when I want blown out highlights, a little flashing area on the LCD which normally means that something is 'wrong' actually means that for my shot it is spot on. Ditto brightness, a night shot is going to spack out on the histogram (in general actually).

They are my thoughts and why I dont look at them, I'd be keen to hear how you use them boods (or anyone else for that matter), and any assistance on how they can assist my shooting.

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Re: Professional Amatuer Shots

Post by daBOODA » Mon 03 Sep, 2012 4:41 pm

I usually use the 'expose to the right' technique when shooting raw.

NOTE: if you're shooting jpeg don't use this technique. Get the exposure as correct as you can.

Here's the wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposing_to_the_right

So the idea is to make the histogram go as far to the right as possible without actually blowing anything out.

In post you then bring the exposure down manually.

The reason you do this is because of how the photosites in the sensor store information. Each pixel has three photosites - red, green and blue. An individual photosite will get hit with photons while the shutter is open and the photosite will register a binary number that represents the intensity of the type of light that the photosite was exposed to.

Let's say this number can be between 0 and 255 where 0 is pure black and 255 is pure white. Let's say that the sensor has an 8 stop dynamic range (I chose that number to make it easier for the example). You'd *think* that the possible values that the number could be would be evenly spread out to each stop in that dynamic range. You'd think that 0-31 would be the first stop and that 32-63 would be the next stop in brightness all the way up to 223-255 representing the brightest stop.

Not so! It's actually exponential, not linear, by ^2. So values between 126 and 255 represent the brightest stop. 64-125 represent the next darkest stop, 32-63 is the next, 16-31, 8-15, 4-7, 2-3, 0-1.

Each stop darker you get the less variation there is in the possible values the sensor can represent.

So you try to get as much light in as possible to flood those photosites with photons so they can register more variation.

This will give you more control in post. You're always darkening photos because if you try to lighten them you're going to get ugly blocky, blotchy areas because there was not enough variation in the data that the sensor gave you.

Now you shouldn't do this for all photos. I don't think I'd do this for night time photography where most of the image is dark. What you'd gain in variation of intensity you'd lose in having that shutter open for too long to get enough light in. Plus at such low levels of light you'll never get enough light during a night shoot to put the histogram to the right.

Sorry for the nerdgasm
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